Author: Rob (RCI, CWDI, CWI)
As the summer draws closer, most will notice that our beloved climbing gyms are becoming sparsely populated. Just the mere hint of sun and most of us will be out on our projects or to our favourite crags. We probably take it for granted that we can climb outdoors. But, I can guarantee that we all remember our first outdoor climbing experience.
For some it was a school trip. For others, it was an outing organised by a friend. Either way, we made it outdoors and it got us hooked. But for our newest generation of climbers and newcomers to the sport, the prospect of heading outdoors can be quite daunting and knowing how to get out, can be quite challenging.
So we're here are a few tips to help you making the leap in to the world of outdoor climbing.
Be humble
Climbing outdoors is completely different to pulling on plastic. The feedback that you get from the rock through your shoes and hands will be unlike anything you might have experienced so far. Many crags will also have their own particular climbing styles when it comes to climbing on the rock there, and it may take a while to get used to it.
Just because you can lead 6a indoors, doesn't mean you'll be doing the same outdoors. There are many extra factors and sensations outdoors that can heighten your sense and emotional responses. This in turn, could put you off your head game.
Just take your time to adjust to the rock, conditions and environment and you'll get there. There's no rush, honestly. This may also help avoid situations of leaving gear behind from having to escape from a route.
Do your research
Guidebooks, OS Maps, UKC and local knowledge will go a long way. Remember; low grade routes with easy access, will inevitably suffer from polished rock and may not be the best to start your outdoor adventure on. Look for the routes that don't see heavy traffic. Also, some crags will have their own micro climates. If there's a hint of rain; you may find your target destination already soaked and suffering from seepage.
Find out what type of rock you are going to be climbing on? Gritstone, Limestone, Granite, Slate? All will feel different under foot and will have their own particular styles of climbing and dangers.
What gear will you need? Cams, Nuts, Hexes, Micros, 50m ropes, 80m rope? What we're getting at here, is to make sure you're not caught short! Put yourself in the position of being prepared for what's ahead.
Access & Restrictions
This is a big one! We are lucky enough in this country to have the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), who works endlessly to maintain access to our beloved crags. Though most crags will have access; there may still be restrictions to that access, for example;
- Nesting birds
- Protected plant/animal species (SSSI)
- Private ownership
- Dangerous rock
- Insurance* (We'll discuss this one in just a moment)
If you are unsure of any restrictions or access, then have a quick look on the BMC RAD. If you are still unsure, then you can contact the BMC access rep for that area.
We mentioned insurance in the list above. Some crags require you to have public liability insurance of x amount to climb there. Cheddar Gorge being one particular crag where this insurance is a necessity! You get the required insurance with your BMC membership and it will cover you for the crags in the UK.
Please DO NOT jeopardise access by not observing restrictions or flaunting the rules! If you lose access, we all lose access!
Keep an eye on the weather and be prepared
The last thing you want is for your trip to be spoiled by bad weather or even worse; fall victim of too much good weather. Check your forecast and pack accordingly! Waterproofs, sun cream, water are essential! Spare change of clothes can be kept in the car for when you've finished.
Helmets
We know they can be bulky and sweaty. But it's not worth the risk climbing without one! Not only does a helmet protect your belayer from the odd bit of shrapnel that you may dislodge, but should you take a fall; the last part of your body you want impacting the rock, is your head! Keep it safe, keep your lid on!
Experience days & guidance
Experience days run by climbing walls and/or outdoor professionals are a fantastic way to getting an introduction to climbing outdoors. Most of these sessions would be top roping on local crags, with maybe some bouldering included and are brilliant ways of building up your network within the climbing community. Your instructor would also be able to give you guidance and coaching with your experience.
If you're keen go from leading indoors to the world of traditional climbing or sport climbing; then we would suggest that you book onto a course run by an appropriately qualified provider.
The MTA (Mountain Training Association) have just released the Rock Skills courses. These courses are tiered from beginner, intermediate, sport/trad and will teach you the necessary skills to climb outdoors, learn trad and sport safely. You can book onto these courses via the MTA website.
Respect the Rock/ Leave no trace
Chalk is well welcomed when it comes to keeping hands dry, but it leaves unsightly stains on the rock. Litter can also spoil your experience and the experience for others. Please brush off chalk from holds and collect all the litter, even if it's not yours. This also goes for loud music; you may love sending your project to your favourite track. But others around you may not be so appreciative, nor will the local wildlife.
Relax and enjoy
You're about to embark on an epic adventure and see sights that not many people get the pleasure of seeing. Enjoy every moment of it.
If you would like to book on to one of our Rock Climbing Experience Days or Introduction to Outdoor Bouldering Days; please book via www.upandunderadventures.com/rock-climbing
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